A diary/guide to Cesky Krumlov | Europe 2018

This blog post series is all about my backpacking trip across Europe this summer, which I did using a Hop On Hop Off bus pass. In this post I’ve just left Prague and arrived at Cesky Krumlov, the third stop of my trip. Here’s what I got up to:

I woke up early on my last day in Prague with a mixed bag of emotions. I was sad to be leaving one of my favourite cities in the whole world, but I was excited to go to a place I’d never been before: Cesky Krumlov. I was also tired because it was before 7am, hungry because I forgot to buy anything for breakfast, and a bit grumpy because it was before 7am. Morning people, I will literally never understand you.

After a brief stop at a Tesco on the way which every British person on the bus got embarrassingly excited at the sight of, we arrived in Cesky Krumlov at midday, parked up outside the town, and walked down to the drop off point. I said goodbye to the group and carried on walking to my hostel, which was a whole 15 minutes away on the other side of town (they aren’t joking when they say you can see it all in a day).

I stayed at a place called Krumlov House, a cute and quirky little homestay that was probably one of my favourite places that I stayed in on the whole trip. It’s made up of two connected houses, one from the mid 1700s and the other from the early 20th century (the latter of which used to be the town bakery). This probably explains the very cosy rustic interiors which feature wooden beams and mismatched furnishings and knick knacks scattered around the place. That sort of vibe. SO CUTE. Take a look at the hostel here, where you can also find their amazingly comprehensive map which came in so so handy.

After checking in I went straight back out to explore Cesky Krumlov, which literally looks like it’s come straight out of a fairytale. I wanted to start off by having a wander through the town, so I spent a few hours exploring the winding, cobbled streets, riverside walks, and brightly coloured architecture that made up the town’s landscape. It was a bit like being in York, only without all of the Northern accents and tea and Viking stuff:

One of the recommendations given in the hostel guide was to go and watch the sunset from a viewing point that was a short walk away from Krumlov House. So, at about 6pm, me and a couple of new pals from the hostel went out and followed the route on the map which took us up some winding roads and into a park with a big lake and some playing fields where we watched the sun go down. It was pretty magical but every photo I took of it looked absolutely terrible, so I’ll just leave this bit blank and move on.

The next day I did some more exploring with a girl from my hostel, and we decided to venture up to Cesky Krumlov Castle. I was trying to be really good with money by this point so didn’t pay to go in, but I had a good look from some of the viewpoints where you can see the whole town. I couldn’t get a good photo because there was a sea of people trying to do the same thing, but here’s a lovely cloudy one that shows the bridge I was stood on which will have to do instead. 

After leaving the castle we went for another stroll and accidentally stumbled upon an old pub/restaurant type place tucked away in one of the town’s alleyways. We stopped to try the other food that had been suggested to us, pork knuckle, and it was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten in my life.

After that my pal had to leave to catch her bus to Vienna, so I spent the rest of the day wandering around the town on my own. I was really enjoying going at a slower pace and experiencing the town itself rather than rushing around to tick off a big list of things to see, so I ended up sitting in one of the pubs next to the river with a pint and just watched the world go by. I also got my travel journal out to do a bit of writing for this blog post, because 1) It’s important to write down little anecdotal details as they’re happening and 2) It’s important to use pen and paper every now and then because as a millennial I sometimes worry I will actually forget how to write.

To finish off my last day in Cesky Krumlov I decided to go for dinner at one of the cute riverside restaurants because they weren’t actually that expensive and I wanted to treat myself. I chose a vegetarian place called Paesano which had an outdoor seating area right on the edge of the river where I watched the sun go down over the town with cheap food and a beer. Bliss. (Why do all of my travel memories involve cheap food and a beer?)

The next day I got on my next bus to Munich where I just stayed for one night as a stopover en route to my next stop of my trip: Bled. Let’s be having ya Slovenia.

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